Eyeliner: A Cultural History

A dazzling exploration of the global intersections of beauty and power


A Sunday Times Style Barometer and New York Times Book Review Editors’ Choice

For centuries, humans have been drawn to lining our eyes. The aesthetic trademark of icons from Nefertiti to Amy Winehouse, eyeliner is one of our most enduring cosmetic tools: ancient royals and Gen Z influencers alike have harnessed its power.

Through Zahra Hankir’s kohl-lined eyes, this ubiquitous product becomes proof of the stunning variety among cultures across time and space. By way of intimate conversations – with Chadian nomads, Japanese geisha, Indian dancers, New York’s drag queens and more – Eyeliner embraces the profound significance of its namesake, especially among communities of colour.

Eyeliner is a delightful and unexpectedly moving journey through streets and stages around the world, and a stirring reclamation of a key piece of our collective history.

Review

Cosmetic, tool of rebellion, status signifier: Eyeliner has been all these and more. Moving through millenniums and across civilizations, Hankir gives the makeup its eye-opening due ― New York Times Book Review

A beautifully written deep dive into something that so many of us use on a daily basis with little to no thought. You will never use an eyeliner in the same way again ― Glamour

Hankir makes a compelling case that, far from an inconsequential vanity, eyeliner is not just about beautification but protection, and even politics, for men and women across the world and through the ages ― New Statesman

Fascinating . . . In my line of business (being Miss Universe), eyeliner is more than an item in a makeup kit―it’s part of an artistic palette. This simple tool gives us the power to command a room, to make a personality statement, and to change our entire look on a whim. As Zahra Hankir shows, none of this is new or even modern, but has been part of a legacy of powerful women for millennia -- Sheynnis Palacio, Miss Universe 2023 ― CNN's Best Books of 2023

A beautiful read, a thought-provoking one, and, unlike many history books - endlessly entertaining ― Bad Form, Hardback of the Month

An interesting perspective on a seldom-explored area of cultural history… thought-provoking ― i

Engrossing… Hankir’s history lessons are peppered with cultural references and good humor. The book is a smoky-eye lover’s paradise -- Cat Marnell ― New York Times Book Review

Who knew the humble eyeliner could offer up so much? Hankir’s beautiful writing style and incredible attention to detail mean that even those with zero interest in makeup will find this book awe-inspiring and fascinating as it goes far beyond the realms of beauty. -- Funmi Fetto, author of PALETTE, Contributing Beauty Editor at British Vogue and Beauty Director at the Observer

Hankir delves into the political contexts that inform our make-up choices... Eyeliner is a comprehensive account of how this age-old medium became a means for connection, communication and rebellion ― Dazed

About the Author

Zahra Hankir, a Lebanese British journalist and the editor of Our Women on the Ground, writes about the intersection of politics, culture and society. Her work has appeared in publications including Condé Nast Traveller, the Observer, Times Literary Supplement, BBC News, Al Jazeera English, Bloomberg Businessweek, the Los Angeles Times, and The Rumpus. She was awarded a Jack R. Howard Fellowship in International Journalism to attend the Columbia Journalism School and holds degrees in politics and Middle Eastern studies.